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WHEN Tokyo residents of a certain age want to go shopping, they head for Sugamo, in the north of the city. The main street, Jizo-dori, features a variety of shops selling food, sweets, medicaments, bits and bobs and, most notably, a huge choice of woolly underwear in bright red, a favourite colour with the elderly because it is thought to be lucky and health-giving. The local McDonald’s has a section with seats designed for older people, and a karaoke bar offers songs from the good old days. For spiritual refreshment, there is the four-centuries-old Kogan-ji Buddhist temple, where visitors buy incense and pray for a long life—and a quick and easy exit
